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Retail News South Africa

Turning the SA fashion design industry into a global player

It is certainly agreed by all fashion pundits that it is simply not enough to have a range of pretty garments grace skinny models that wander down a ramp show at any one of the many consumer interfacing fashion shows abounding in South Africa, in order to be a success in the fashion industry.

It is also strongly acknowledged by fashion designers, fashion show owners and organisers, as well as the media which covers these issues, that the business of fashion has been under-supported by the South African government, retailers and manufacturers. It is all too easy to import the cheap alternative and replace it when it wears out, rather than putting money into real skills development and meaningful practical skills upliftment for those currently looking to make a business of fashion and those brave enough to even consider entering the market.

Less talk, more action

But enough talk about the lack of support, skills and attention that is not aimed at the fashion industry in South Africa - it's time to really do something constructive and impactful that will translate in bottom lines as well as hemlines being improved.

Over the past eight years, I have been one of a select few South African designers who have been fortunate to build a brand which is now recognisable on both a local and international stage. Like all members of this exciting and diverse industry, we have worked hard to get where we are now, mostly through a combination of raw talent, being in the right place at the right time, luck and blind faith. Much of this trial and error could have been averted had there been a representative body or networking medium, that provided solid counsel, business advice - how and where to find financing - marketing skills and a network for exchanging information on trends and business practices.

Initiatives such as C'est Couture that identify young talent are a step in the right direction, but the responsibility cannot rest on one person alone. If there is to be a future in fashion and for the fashion show operators to be able to put on entertaining and worthwhile shows, then they need to be broadened beyond the scope of the consumer to include the retailers (local and international) through dialogue with the labour brokers who govern costs which are often a serious impediment to entering the fray, as much as the quality of the garments themselves that need upgrading.

Labels aren't enough

Being Proudly South African is not enough to ensure that your label will be sold to loyal locals and those international travellers seeking something of a souvenir. The clothes we make need to be not only well designed and structured, but price supportive of the consumer whilst building a steady employment base. The industry itself needs to band together to shift the current paradigm to one of cohesiveness in presenting a united face to local consumers as well as the potential in flood of customers gearing up for the magical 2010.

In saying this, I am not advocating that we all as designers and manufacturers jump on the “made in South Africa” bandwagon and churn out memento garments, which, like their Chinese counterparts, will disintegrate with its first wash. Rather, let us develop a viable and tradable middle market that promotes fair labour practices, optimises locally produced fabrics and trims through sterling South African creations. So, the question is, how do we do that?

Beyond the cutting room floor

As a beginning, I strongly believe that Fashion Exchange +27 is a vital business-to-business conference that anyone involved in fashion should attend. It will bring together designers, suppliers, manufacturers and retailers, who will all share knowledge and practical techniques and tools with each other in an environment conducive to seeking solutions and providing real expertise from not only local players, but a cross section of respected international experts who have all made their mark on the business side of fashion. We cannot continue to rely on 2010 and tourism to boost the coffers of the country, so we need to develop a sustainable and viable contributor to the economy as a whole, now - what happens after the World Cup?

Fashion Exchange+27 (the +27 denotes the area dialing code for South Africa), is more than just a two-day conference though. It has been designed to provide a continued forum and network for the exchange of ideas, trends, industry news and happenings, skills development through bursaries and internships, and will fill an important communications gap that the industry is sorely missing. It will in essence act as a hub for members and being a member, means that you are serious about the business of fashion.

About Gavin Rajah

Gavin Rajah is a founder of Cape Town Fashion Week and co-founder of the new business-to-business trade forum, Fashion Exchange +27. A couturier and humanitarian activist, he is the only fashion designer in the world to be a UNICEF Goodwill Ambassador, and was the first South African ever to be invited to show his collection at the Paris Fashion Week Couture.



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